A Farm of Your Own - Part 2

The Quest Now that you have done a bit of soul searching and decided the only way for your sanity to stay somewhat intact is to own a farm. Here are some suggestions to get you prepared for your search: The Land Decide on your stabling arrangements: will they live out full time, or be stabled part of the day? Horses that live out will require anywhere between 2-4 acres EACH depending on soil and growth conditions, and in poor conditions may require even more space. These are acres of actual pasture, not the size of the total property, and not including areas of weeds, ponds, woods, etc. A horse that is turned out for most of the day will require a minimum of 1 acre of pasture each, and you will still have to feed hay when conditions limit growth, like winter and the end of a dry summer… some people believe it’s best to put an easy keeper in a smaller paddock so that there is less for him to eat, but an overgrazed pasture will stress the grasses, which in turn causes them to produce more sugars, and this increases the likelihood of colic and laminitis, especially in the easy keeper type. It is always preferable to have the best quality pasture you can create and use a grazing muzzle to restrict intake if necessary. When in doubt, you may be able to consult your local agricultural extension for help in understanding pasture requirements and maintenance in your area. I would not recommend keeping horses in paddocks smaller than these, but if you must, consider that an overgrazed space without healthy grasses to hold the soil together will quickly become poached and turn to mud/dust; when overgrazed these spaces will become a breeding ground for weeds and parasites. If you must put horses in smaller paddocks, invest in ‘footing’ like well-draining stone dust with a prepared base. Expect to feed all-day hay (preferably in racks to prevent ingesting sand which could lead to sand colic) to keep horses busy and their digestive systems working properly, and plan on cleaning up manure on a daily basis. Living Quarters for Horses Once you have decided how much acreage is needed for your farm, it is time to decide about their shelter accommodations. Will your horses be living outside? If the answer is yes, then you must have a proper sized run-in shed that will house all of the horses comfortably with room for all to lie down and move around without infringing on one another’s space. A good basic rule for shelter size per horse is a stall times two: if your horse would live in a 12x12 stall, he will need a 12x24 shed to get out of the weather and avoid competitive herd-mates. The shed should have a manger to put hay in, this also keeps it from intermingling with the straw or shavings on the floor. The shed must be cleaned out on a regular basis, the schedule depending on how many horses are living there. In the past, we leased a boarding facility that had a wonderful shed with running water, hay storage, a grooming/sick stall, electric (which I would recommend) for lights and, the ultimate luxury, ceiling fans, which the horses loved in the summer months. They really helped to keep the flies away and to keep the horses cool. Perhaps you would rather have a barn to stable them in at night. A ask yourself how many stalls you will need. What size your horses are will determine stall dimensions, obviously a 17.3 hand horse will not be comfortable in a 10x10 stall. Usually a 12x12 will accommodate most horses; I prefer a larger stall at least 14x14. When you are looking at barns, be aware that it must have good ventilation. Windows in the stalls are very good; if by chance they have glass, it should be covered with bars to protect from injury in case of breakage. The best kind of window would be a door that swings open to the outside, latches, and can be closed in the winter or inclement weather. A set of sliding doors at each end of the barn aisle is also needed to allow good airflow through the barn. Aisles should be wide enough to turn a horse around safely without banging into walls or being chomped on by other horses. Another popular stable configuration is the shed row. These are great for smaller spaces where a full barn may not be feasible, and provide great ventilation. One of the main drawbacks to these, however, is the weather. If you live in a region that gets a lot of rain or snow, expect to be outside in it when caring for your horses. Also, consider where horses will be tied/held for the farrier, vet and grooming, etc. Extra benefits in any style of barn would, of course, include a wash stall with hot and cold running water, a grooming stall, a feed room and a tack room to store the saddles, bridles and your other horse needs. The barn may have a loft for hay and shavings storage, although a separate shed to store the hay and feed, away from the barn, would be a better choice. Feed must be kept in airtight bins to keep the population of unwanted barn critters down. Pitchforks, wheelbarrows and the like can be stored in the shed also. Personally, I do not store hay in the loft; it is dusty and could cause respiratory problems for the horses, and the hay could combust and start a fire under the right circumstances. The aisle can be any material as long as it is not slippery, rubber mats or pavers can be laid down to ease the concussion on the horses feet and keep them from losing traction. FENCING & GATES Next on the list, be sure that the fencing is safe for horses. There are so many types of fencing, it would be boring to go into them but I will name a few of the most common varieties. First, never ever use barbed wire anywhere in the vicinity of a horse as it can lead to disastrous situations. In fact, any kind of wire, including electric wire, can be extremely hazardous. It has low visibility and, compared to the size, weight and strength of the horse, the width of fence wire causes it to act similar to cheese wire on a horse. Not something any of us would like to see. Avoid it at all cost! Vinyl fencing has its good and bad sides. The good is that it will not rot, as wood will, so it lasts virtually forever. It is aesthetically pleasing to look at and the broken slats are easy to replace. It does not need to be painted. The down sides: every spring you will need to hire someone to power-wash it, after the winter storms it looks dirty and dingy. Quick note: while it would not have been our first choice, the farm we bought was done in vinyl fencing; we contacted a professional to do the power-washing. His price was $500 a day and the estimate was for at least six days. So the upkeep could run into a lot of money. Consequently, I am thinking of buying my own machine. In addition, winter temperature sometimes cause the vinyl to freeze and become brittle, the horses find it easy to break; when it does break, its edges become sharp splinters. Wood fencing: One type of fencing has posts and a single board at the top with wire mesh running to the ground, sometimes called ‘thoroughbred’ fencing, as it is commonly used on large breeding farms. We have had this type of fencing, it is very functional, and relatively safe if properly maintained. I do not like the look of it, but that is personal preference. It occasionally will need a board or post replaced. It is more expensive than many other types of fencing, but has the advantage that there is less wood to replace over time. Some of the drawbacks with this fencing are frayed wires, warping, holes (often from the mower,) or horses getting cast and catching their legs underneath (reference cheese-wire effect above.) In addition, it is important to make sure the openings in the mesh are appropriate for horses and not big enough to allow a kicking hoof to go through (something to consider if you will have tiny-footed foals in your paddocks.) If you choose this kind of fencing make sure you have a professional install the wire mesh, as it must be tight all the way round the paddock. One of the less imagined considerations is that you cannot climb it (which makes getting into a large pasture to fix a fly mask, blanket, etc. a bit of a project when you have to go around to the gate and hike) and that, while large non-equine species have a more difficult time getting into the paddock, they also have a harder time getting out, which might mean your dog will get trapped on the inside (as our have,) or, deer can become tangled in the fence in a panic (as we often found.) Regular wood fencing with posts and four boards is probably the most common. There are two main types: Standard post and rail has the boards nailed or screwed into place, and slip-board has the boards fitted into holes in the post (this type is more expensive, but is obviously easier to replace since it does not involve nail pulling, and may be safer, as there is no potential for injury from nails.) Depending on the type of wood, board fencing may have to be painted on a regular basis. Another option is the split rail, which is my personal favorite. It does not require painting, and when weathered, blends beautifully into the natural surroundings. These rails are easily replaced and again, have no nails to potentially injure horses. Horse fencing should ideally be at least four rails high – and may need to be higher for stallions - though three-rail might be alright for small breeds. We’ve had horses jump out over three-rail, so you may want to avoid this if your horses are athletically inclined, excitable, or both… Another option is electric fencing. This works great in a temporary situation, but I don’t like it as much for permanent fencing. It requires a lot of maintenance to keep it properly stretched and charged, but is relatively inexpensive and easy to install. We use it occasionally to divide larger paddocks. The best kind, we have found, is high-visibility electric tape. You can fix this to wood posts for more permanence and safety, or use it on plastic or metal t-posts. However, if you are using t-posts, I’d recommend getting full post covers (www.horseguard.com sells a nice quality electric tape with post covers) to prevent unnecessary injury. On a separate note, it will cost slightly more, but plan to set any metal or plastic posts at a minimum of 6’ to prevent impalement injuries – I know, it sounds gruesome, but it’s something to consider if you have horses that play hard or are inclined to jump over or run through fence if they are upset. Another consideration is gates. Many use the tubular steel or aluminum gates, which are light, sturdy, resistant to warping and relatively inexpensive – they are also readily available should one break – you can usually pick them up at your local feed store. Wood gates are attractive, but tend to sag after a while, especially if they are wide enough for a vehicle to go through. Vinyl gates that match vinyl (pvc) fencing look nice as well, but become more flexible the wider they are, and so can easily be popped open if a horse pushes against them (something Donnie discovered his second day at our farm) so will need to be chained in addition to latching, or electrified. Gates should not only be used as entrances to paddocks, but should be implemented near driveway entrances so the whole barn/turnout area is essentially a safe island for the horses. Horses can break cross-ties, break out of their stalls and paddocks, get away from their handlers while leading or get loose if a rider falls. In these circumstances, the escapee horse should not be able to get loose in the neighborhood and do damage to themselves, drivers, pedestrians, the neighbor’s flowerbeds, the local sod farm (don’t ask…) etc. Be forewarned, if there is an opening, your horse will take it; it is your responsibility as a farm owner to make sure your horses are safely contained on your property and there is no escape route the horses can take. These few features are more than likely the most important aspects of things you should be looking for in a potential farm, but there are other things to consider also, before you dial up the real estate agent. I will address these other options in my next post. Until next time Quote for Today I live in a house but my home is in the stable.

A Farm of Your Own

A Farm of Your Own

At one time or another, every equestrian has fantasized of owning his or her own farm. For some of us the dream has been realized for others it has yet to happen. In keeping with the theme of this blog “the aging equestrian”, in a short series of posts I would like to cover the pros and cons of farm ownership for our age group. I welcome all comments and recommendations you might be able to add that would be helpful to prospective farm owners.

The Reason Why

Out of the blue the mantra, need a farm, need a farm, need a farm is on a loop in your brain. You wonder, where did that come from? Why, exactly, do you want your own farm? Have you simply had enough of boarding stables or the care your horse is receiving? Maybe you are tired of the show circuit and just want to relax and enjoy your horses in your own backyard. Has the atmosphere at boarding stables (not to mention the rules) finally gotten to the point where you no longer enjoy the time you are at the barn? Whatever your reasons are, they are significant enough that you want to take on a completely new lifestyle. However, are you sure you’re ready to handle this huge change?

The Decision

To be certain that the decision to own a farm is right for you at this time, you must consider all the aspects involved. Even if you believe you are ready for a place of your own, you have to ask yourself whether you are experienced enough to be responsible for everything it entails. It is a huge commitment and not one to take on without due consideration. Many questions need to be asked and answered before you contact a real estate agent. As always, you must be very honest with your soul searching about what kind of a farm you intend to own; without honest answers you will set yourself up for failure and heartache.

v If you plan to have a backyard set-up for your own horses, will you be doing the feeding and mucking? Can you afford to pay someone else to do it? Do you trust them? Good help is nearly impossible to find; if something goes wrong and you are temporarily without help, can you handle the farm by yourself for a few days or weeks until you find a replacement employee? When the farm is snowed in, will you be mucking all of the stalls and hauling all of the hay, feed and water yourself? If you are taking care of things yourself, what will you do if you are injured, get sick or want to take a vacation?

Having a single horse, isolated from other horses, is borderline cruel for these social animals; will you get your horse a companion; and, will you be able to separate them for your riding, or will you need three horses just so you can take one out to ride without the other getting frantic? Will you have enough space to accommodate the number of horses you plan to have?

If you plan to board a horse or two or are considering taking on friend's horse in a backyard situation, you’ll need to educate yourself about liability and how to protect yourself in the event a horse or rider sustains an injury while under your care. Friends are wonderful until something catastrophic happens to their horse, whether it is your fault or not.

v Do you want to try your hand at breeding and selling horses? Breeding is a 24/7 project - you do not get to go on vacation and you need a qualified knowledgeable person present at all times. Leaving horses unattended during the day while you are at work or running errands is out of the question; there is no end to the trouble horses can get into and someone needs to be on premises at all times. Is a full-time manager in your budget, or, if you take on the responsibility yourself, can you handle the physical demands of raising a rambunctious baby? Do you know enough to properly handle and train one from scratch? You must ask yourself if you are skilled and knowledgeable enough to bring quality horses into the world, train them properly and sell them to good and caring homes.

v How about a place for retired horses that need a place to live out their final days in peace and dignity. If you plan to run a facility for them, are you aware of the special needs of an older horse? Including specialized feeding, dentistry and veterinary care, proper turnout, and perhaps limited but correct exercise?

v Have you thought you could run a boarding and training facility featuring quality training, state of the art barns and riding arenas, shows and clinics, etc? Do you think you could make money doing this to pay for your dream of owning your own farm?

Legal matters may arise for any number of reasons, and you must be prepared to defend yourself and your farm from bogus claims. You are on call, similar to a doctor 24-7. Horses can get sick and need medical attention day or night. Again, good barn help is notoriously hard to find; are you prepared to deal with employees in a fair but firm manner? Will you have staff quarters on the premises? Are you well versed in the law pertaining to workers? Can you find a qualified barn manager and instructor(s)?

Starting a business is never easy, and operating a barn is one of the hardest types of business you can enter into and succeed. From personal experience, I can attest to the fact that dealing with boarders, their horses, and their horse’s special needs, may find you at times feeling overwhelmed and lead you to believe having a degree in psychotherapy would be required just to get you through the day. What is more, people tend to think that owning a farm will mean more time to ride and spend with their horses, but often it is just the opposite; attending to the needs of boarders and their horses is a full-time job in itself, and leaves very little time for relaxation and fun with your own horses. My advice is unless you are knowledgeable enough to handle all (or most) aspects of the business, or can afford to hire those who are, you may want to skip this idea.

v Finally, being an older horse person, perhaps with the requisite aches and pains of aging, can you honestly say you are up to the challenge owning a farm encompasses. Will you be up for the physical and mental ordeal that greets you each morning at dawn?

Once you have a firm idea of exactly the type of farm you want to own, you can start looking for the perfect place to make your dream a reality. I will address this in my next post.

Until next time

Quote of the Day

Nothing moves me more than when on the way to fetching in my horses the sound of their neighing to me as I open the gate.

Dos and Don'ts of Purchasing a Horse

Purchasing a Horse

On February 2 Punxsutawney Phil, the famous groundhog residing in Pennsylvania, saw his shadow and predicted six more weeks of winter. Not being one to put much stock in what a little rodent has to say, I believe that Spring is just around the corner. With springtime on the way, naturally our thoughts turn to horses. This is traditionally the time of year people start looking for horse prospects to purchase. No one in his or her right mind will purchase a horse before winter that needs to be fed and cared for and have limited riding and training time for an entire season.

Instead of advising on what to do when you begin your search, perhaps it would be better to touch on what not to do.

· Never impulse buy. A horse is not the attractive box of candy beside the cash register; it is a living breathing being that will need care for the rest of its life. To avoid impulse buying, it would be wise not to travel with your horse trailer dragging behind you from farm to farm and have a blank check in your bag. This could be disastrous for both you and the horse.

· By no means, buy a horse because you like their breed, name, color or size. Horses are individuals, regardless of breed, and the old cliché applies: never judge a book by its cover. Maybe the horse fits into the halter, saddle, or blanket you already own; sure this would save money by not having to buy duplicate items, but it’s much easier to replace a piece of tack that doesn’t fit your horse than an entire horse that doesn’t fit you! I actually know someone who bought a horse because it fit the saddle and bridle she already owned; it did not turn out well.

· Avoid at all costs the “dog pound syndrome.” This is when you fall in love with the most pathetic specimen in the lot and take him home out of pity. Of course, there is nothing wrong with giving a needy horse a good home. However, unless you are prepared to rehab this horse and deal with its issues, this may not be a good scenario for you. Rehab could mean huge medical or training costs and, even if you are prepared financially to handle that aspect, some abused horses are so psychologically scarred they can never be brought back to their full potential. Likewise, be aware that a skinny, hungry or otherwise sickly horse will be much more docile than a fit and healthy one; some horses are actually starved intentionally by their owners because they are untrained, unruly or not able to be worked with safely. Once rehabilitated, you may have more horse than you bargained for.

· If you are a beginner (or even if you are not,) you probably don’t need the most athletic horse you can find, or the one with enormous “potential,” as this often translates to “this horse is a handful with the biggest buck and the fastest spook.” Often the horse with the round, scopey jump, the biggest stride, or the most suspension will make a fantastic prospect for a professional or a serious advanced rider, but may be more horse than you need for pleasure riding, adult amateur hunters or first level dressage, for example. You’ll have to work much harder at staying with your super-athletic horse over fences or sitting the trot on that big mover than you might like, and often at the expense of safety. Just as it’s never advisable to buy those jeans you hope to fit into “one day,” it’s best to resist the temptation of buying something green or more advanced that you can “grow into” in favor of buying the horse that is best suited to you here and now. If you are anticipating moving up the levels that rapidly, then you might be better off leasing a horse at each stage and waiting to buy until you are closer to your goal.

· In your travels, of course, you will come across a horse that just seems perfect for you. You instantly feel the special connection; you must have this horse at any cost. Well, the truth is this horse will be there tomorrow or next week or even next month. Do not fall for the hard sell, which could go something like this, “I have three more people interested in this horse, so you better make up your mind today, otherwise, he will be sold to one of the others buyers tomorrow morning.” Take a step back and think why this owner would not have sold him to one of the others before you arrived! Did he somehow know that the perfect partner for this horse was traveling to the beam of light this extraordinary horse was sending telepathically to you over the miles? Oh yes, Mr. Zen can see you have a real connection and he would not want this horse to go to just anybody. Mr. Magnanimous will even take a little less to make sure this prize gets a good home. Chances are the owner/seller has boarded this horse for the winter so lowering the price just to get rid of him might seal the deal. At this point, take another step back, turn and run to the car.

· The horse must be ridden more than once before purchase, by either you or your instructor. You need to evaluate whether or not this is a horse you can handle. If there is any excuse why he cannot be ridden right now; he threw a shoe this morning; the dentist was here yesterday and floated his teeth; he is dirty and needs a bath, don’t believe it. If the seller is not offering a ride on the horse he is selling there is a reason. A horse should always be put on the longe, as most lameness and gait problems will show up on the circle. Always ride the horse more than once and at different times of the day. During lessons, at night, in the morning, ride as much as permitted before money changes hands. Many sales stable will “prepare” a horse prior to your arrival to ensure you have an uneventful ride; if at all possible, leasing the horse or taking it on trial for a few weeks will give you a sampling of his personality and quirks under more realistic circumstances.

· Also, do not expect to buy a horse and have it appreciate in value. Think of it like buying a car - you will never resell the horse for more than you paid for it unless you are a professional trainer and can really improve an already promising horse.

· A green horse is not ever a good idea for a beginner and some non-beginners as well. Unless you can personally train it, never consider a green horse. If you buy green and are unable to complete the job at hand, you expose yourself to the possibility that a trainer will take advantage of you and your horse. Trainers are a dime a dozen and most possess an ego the size of Texas; there is no guarantee that they know how to get the horse from point A to point B correctly. Buying a young untrained horse because of a cheaper price tag, will more than likely wind up costing a whole lot more than the older, safer, more experienced horse for a few dollars more at the outset.

· Try not to over spend. If you must cash in your life savings, re-mortgage your house or really cut back on the family’s groceries, then perhaps this expensive once in a lifetime horse may not be the one for you. On the other side of the coin, “don’t look a gift horse in the mouth,” may have had some meaning in past times, but it’s always wise to remember a free horse is never free. The board and feed and medical bills are the same price for any horse you own.

· No matter how much the seller guarantees his health, the horse you have selected needs a pre-purchase exam, with x-rays. If the horse has previous x-rays, all the better to compare with the new ones. If the horse is registered with papers, make sure all the markings and descriptions match. If you don’t request the papers for your horse (and make sure they are authentic), many dealers will simply recycle them for the next similar-looking horse that comes into their yard. There are reasons the expression “horse-trader” is used in a derogatory sense.

· Take a knowledgeable trainer/horse person with you. If you are not sure of conformation, lameness, behavior, suitability or general condition issues, some expertise is needed. A knowledgeable horse person can help you ask the right questions and restrain you from making a hasty decision you may later regret. And your trainer should be able to determine whether, depending on what discipline you ride, that 15 hand western pleasure horse is suitable for getting you to Grand Prix level dressage or over a four-foot hunter course. Maybe the 17.3 hand Warmblood is just not the right horse for trail riding (have you ever tried to get on one from the ground?) The bottom line is, get the horse you need for what you plan to do, not the horse you want because it is a pretty color.

· Rescuing horses from a reputable organization is a noble cause. But first, ask yourself if you are skilled and knowledgeable enough to rehab a horse, as this takes much time and effort. We have taken in many horses over the years for rehabilitation and we don’t regret any one of them, since most would have been sent to slaughter if we had not had the time and know-how to rehab an unwanted, abused or seriously injured horse. I am happy to report that they all found good and loving homes (or found permanent places with us.) Just a bit more about this, with all of our rehab “projects,” progress did not occur overnight. Most have taken a long time, including one who needed surgery and a cast on his leg for months; others required extensive physical therapy treatments, re-training, etc.; each horse had a different need. And horses that need to be confined for long periods or gradually re-introduced to work can be difficult if not downright dangerous. Rehabilitation is very time consuming and requires patience, money and skill. Although I enjoyed helping these horses because it was challenging and fulfilling, I would not recommend it for everyone. A rehab horse is always a gamble. Not all of them can be “fixed,” and this is something you need to take into consideration as well. The point here is to not purchase a horse you are not prepared to care for in good times and bad. If you are the sort of person who collects animals, as I do, and know that what you bring home has a home for life, try to get a horse that fits into the program and that you can live with and love, even if it can’t live up to your expectations.

At the end of the day, everyone will buy the horse they feel a connection with and, if it is not the perfect match, they will have to learn to live with their decision. Before you start searching for the perfect partner, ask yourself all the tough questions. You must be very honest about your riding abilities, your goals, what you can afford and the type of horse you need. Somewhere out there is the perfect horse for you and you will find him or her eventually. Keep in mind that you have to be flexible – no horse is perfect.

Until next time

Quote of the Day

A lovely horse is always an experience . . . It is an emotional experience of the kind that is spoiled by words.
- Beryl Markham

Horse Virus MeMe Strikes Again !

' Horse Quirks '

Victoria at Teachings of the Horse has asked for volunteers for the new horse virus afflicting the blogosphere, so I am volunteering in the hopes I will not be “tagged” by other bloggers. Below is a list of quirks that distinguish each member of our herd as an individual.

Blue

Blue is kind of a loner – he has almost no “herd instinct;” sometimes when he’s out in the back field by himself, it will take him an hour or two to realize the rest of his herd is already in the barn and eating dinner.

Blue can often be found with his head stuck in a bush for no apparent reason. We’re convinced he’s practicing his meditation.

He is a stealth escape artist. Say you are bringing hay into the field on the back of a truck; you look around and no sign of horses. But, if there is a gate open in the paddock for even a minute, rest assured Blue is hiding behind a bush or a shed somewhere, watching. When he sees an opening, he’ll come tearing “out of the blue” and through the gate… to freedom!

Blue is one-with-the-deer. While living out, all of the horses will come into the shed at feed time and hang out there eating their hay for a good portion of the night. But Blue is not one of them. Instead, he’s usually to be found right in the middle of a herd of deer. The deer seem to take no notice of him, and he seems to be more at home among them than the other horses sometimes.

Birds regularly perch on his hindquarters while he’s out grazing, making him resemble a rhinoceros of the Serengeti.

When Blue can’t be bothered to come in from the back field, we leave the gates open for him and eventually he will come moseying into his stall; though when allowed to wander into his stall from the paddock, he will occasionally make a detour to climb into the dumpster and just stand there.

If you turn Blue out in an indoor full of jumps, he will voluntarily jump an entire “course” on his own – think of a jump-off with lots of turns and lots of speed!

Blue apparently can’t eat his grain until his bucket is arranged “just so” – he works it out so that one of the snaps kinks and holds that side of his bucket up higher than the other. Not until his feed bucket is properly tilted can Blue commence his feeding frenzy.

He will not drink anything but fresh water; if his bucket is filled during the day, it’s no good. He has to watch you fill it before he’ll drink.

He will not put his halter on to go out in the morning until he has relieved his bladder

Blue can sleep through anything. In his stall, he likes to bury his head under one of his banks and it’s Lights Out! But, even at his first show – which was an away show during which he was stabled in an indoor arena for a week – he slept – and I mean, lying down – while a stranger braided him for the first time.

Donnie

Donnie is a cheeky monkey. He is always up for roughhousing, games and other mischievous antics – even when no one else is in the mood, somehow, Donnie always convinces the herd to play along.

Even though he is a shy, cautious horse, his curiosity and intelligence usually get the better of him. He can dismantle a round pen (the kind with chains, though I’m sure, he could remove pins as well…) and free any horse imprisoned within. He can also open gate and stall latches, and when that fails, he can pop out fence boards with his chest.

For Donnie, being the lowest status horse in the herd does not inhibit his ability to get in a few cheap shots on his buddies – he simply waits until they are on the ground rolling to make his sneak attack… no one is safe.

He is the all-time reigning champion at “halter tag” – he can break or otherwise remove the halter from any other horse at any time. He also enjoys leading other horses around by their halters. Needless to say, we don’t turn out with halters these days…. He’s pretty good with blankets, too.

Donnie play-fights like a zebra – he goes for his opponent’s legs and then sits down or kneels to protect his own. He’s a dirty little fighter!

Donnie is phobic about anyone touching his ears while putting his halter on, but loves it when you stick your fingers into them and scratch!

Donnie was abused before we got him and used to be extremely shy. Now he is the barn mascot and talks to everyone who enters the barn. And his reaction to people he likes? He gently grabs them by the sleeve or the front of their jacket (never pinching the skin) and pulls them over to the front of his stall to play.

Mellon

Mellon has a phobia about paper cups. Don’t walk past his stall with a coffee cup in your hand unless you’d like him to ricochet off the back wall of his stall, and don’t even try to get a drink of water while mounted at a hunter pace checkpoint!

Though not a fan of having body clippers actually on his body, he loves to have his face clipped with the body clippers. Same goes for the hose; he’ll do his best to prevent you from getting his legs or body wet, but he’ll absolutely insist you soak his head.

He is quick with his feet – at one barn where there was a rat problem; we’d muck out several flattened rats every morning. We had a similar problem with horseshoe crabs at the beach (we tried to explain that “horseshoe” was just a nickname and that they weren’t going to become attached to his feet, but he wasn’t buying it.) The same is true with hoof oil cans; leave one near his feet and then surprise him with the hoof-oil brush at your own peril! Try cleaning an exploded can of hoof varnish off the walls once and you’ll never make that mistake again.

Mellon could be the most regal – even prissy - horse you will ever meet, but he cannot resist covering his entire head with bran mash when he’s lucky enough to have one for dinner. In fact, it gets in his ears, his mane and even his on shoulders. Not really sure how he does it… or why… but, it makes him happy…

Mellon always has to be first – first to eat, first to come in, first to go out or he’ll become hysterical. I recall the first barn where he was stabled had low ceilings and, because his stall was on the end, he was turned out last. there were hoof prints on the ceiling!

Mellon lives for grooming – preferably with other horses. He sets up shop - “Mel’s Fabulous Manes” - and will stand in one spot in a run in shed, and the rest of the herd will line up and wait for their grooming appointment. He’ll also groom humans – Mellon thinks people look best with huge dreadlocks of hair sticking off the sides of their heads, preferably held in place by copious amounts of horse slobber – his own line of styling product, if you will…

After the water trough has been scrubbed and refilled, Mellon will sometimes take up a post as the sole guardian of the water. He can spend hours standing over it. Maybe he’s guarding against slobbery backwashers? Or keeping the birds from mistaking it for a bath? No one but Mellon knows for sure…

Nate

Nate is a little like a trained elephant at a circus – put a block or any other solid object in front of him, and he’ll stand on it with as many of his feet as he can manage. This includes trying to get onto the mounting block with you, or standing on your step stool while you are pulling his mane. We like to ride in the field and once left a mounting block out there – when we came out in the morning, we found Nate standing proudly with both of his front feet on the top step. We have no idea how long he had been standing like that….

Don’t ever bend over in front of Nate or he will ram your backside with his head like a goat, sending you flying across his stall to do a face-plant in the shavings. Or, alternatively, he will amuse himself by grabbing the waistband of your pants and lifting you off the ground – the equine equivalent of an atomic wedgie. Always best to pick out his front feet on the cross-ties…

Nate will try to remove your shoes with his teeth (and is sometimes successful!) If his nose is near the ground, don’t stand still for too long!

If you’re not paying attention while you’re riding, Nate will turn around and grab the end of your dressage whip, pull it out of your hand, put the other end under his foot and snap it in half. We’ve lost a lot of whips that way… Also, one icy day when we turned out in the indoor, he picked up a longe whip lying on the ground and chased another horse around the arena with it!

Nate will try to fit his head into any opening he encounters – sometimes with disastrous results – he will also try to squeeze under things clearly not designed to accommodate his 17.2hh frame – stall guards, tree limbs, and even an entire fallen tree in his paddock… going down hill… at a full gallop…

Nate can be in a 40 acre field of lush pasture, but will be the only horse sticking his head through the fence by the road to nibble on dirty weeds.

Nate likes to dismantle things – grooming kits, tack trunks, jumps, flower boxes, radios, telephones – anything he can get his teeth and hooves on.

Nate loves to jump things out in the field. If no actual jumps are available, he’ll look for interesting hills to fly off of or puddles to leap over!

Nate’s idea of “playing” involves three things: chewing on another horse’s chin (I know, it’s a little odd), clamping his jaws over the other horse’s mane and not letting go, and hovering over the other horse’s back with his jaws open in the annoying big-brother gesture of “I’m not touching you, I’m not toooouuuuching you, heheheheheheh…..”

Nate, the barn mayor, can finagle food from even the most stingy of herd-mates. When dining out in the field, Nate has been known to casually visit each horse’s bucket, take a taste and move on. Oddly enough, no one seems to mind, including Mellon. After all, he’s just being “Nate.”

Dusty

Dusty thinks she’s Marilyn Monroe reincarnated. She must be groomed endlessly, and when she’s had enough of her adoring public, will slam her stall door shut. Then, when she hears the feed bucket or the hay cart come out, she’ll whip open her door and emerge from her stall again.

Likes: stomping in muddy puddles, stuffing all of her hay into her water buckets, snorkeling in same water buckets, trotting as fast as her legs will go, her breastplate (it enhances her cleavage!), and cameras (so she has something to pose for.)

Dislikes: standing still, following anyone (she has to be in front!), waiting for people to mount (let’s go already!) foreign objects in her mouth (like bits) and of course, those stupid boys!

Until next time

Quote for Today

Horses have as much individuality and character as people.

- C.W. Anderson